Axum
Once referred to as “Ethiopian Rome”, and the previous capital of the oldest Christian kingdom in the world, Axum is home to an ancient ruling Empire where kings were once crowned. Caravan routes met here, in Northern Ethiopia which allowed the kingdom to command the Ivory trade with Sudan and control the Red Sea trade through Port Adulis, giving the Axumite kingdom a symbol of wealth and importance for close to seven hundred years.
The magical power of sacred land and an atmosphere of peace permeates this site, drawing pilgrims and devotees to worship from near and far. Known as the Tigray region, and part of the Northern Historical Circuit, Axum is visited between the cities of Makele and Gondar- the Camelot of Africa.
What to See
The highlights of this ancient kingdom include giant obelisks, ancient castles, the Queen of Sheba’s palace and bath, King Ezana’s inscription, King Kaleb’s tomb, King Bazen’s tomb, and the Ark of the Covenant.
The ruins of Axum are dominated by giant stelaes, crafted from natural stone. The tallest standing obelisk towers at 23 m, while the largest in the world lies in ruins where it fell. These obelisks are said to mark the sites of royal tombs, and are intricately carved. At the base of the collapsed obelisk, entrances to tombs have been exposed and very few of the underground grave chambers are open to visitors.
Before visiting the obelisks, and the tombs that lay within them, a visit to Axum is best started at the St. Mary of Zion Church where it is rumoured to house the Ark of the Covenant, brought to Axum by the Queen of Sheba’s son. It is said, the legendary Queen of the south visited King Solomon in Jerusalem so that he might teach her the Jewish faith. She was seduced by the King and later gave birth to a boy- Solomon’s son, Menelik.
After exploring the obelisks and visiting the church, make your way away from town to the Queen of Sheba’s bath, now used by locals. This is a great place to refresh yourself and take in some local everyday life. Since the area is not overrun by tourists, engagement with locals is very easy in this part of Ethiopia.
Casually housed in a small shed, and farther up a hill away from town, we make our way to King Ezana’s inscription. This is a tablet written in multiple languages, showing that people in the Axumite kingdom spoke and wrote in several languages, furthering its claim as a trading powerhouse of the ancient world.
At the top of the hill away from town, sits King Kaleb’s tomb and below it, King Bazen’s Tomb- rumoured to be one of the three wise men at Jesus’ birth.
End your walk about Axum at The Palace of the Queen of Sheba. Located in the western part of Axum, the palace is across the street from the Guduit Staele field, where you explored the obelisks and tombs of ancient kings.
Getting Around
Remaining the capital of the Ethiopian Church, Axum s a clean, well kept town with cobbled streets and attractive flame trees providing shade throughout. Exquisite art is housed inside churches, hidden behind beautifully intricate tapestries. Getting around in a Bajaj, blue three wheeled motorized rickshaws, is the best way to see Axum.
What to Eat
While bombing around the sites in your Bajaj, ask your driver about tasting Ful. This spicy tomato and bean dish topped with yogurt and scrambled eggs is served with crusty bread and is a must have when visiting the area.
Visit Antica Traditional, a local spot where food and drink are flowing, while music and dance is in abundance. On the outside this may seem like a perfect spot for tourists, but you will find that locals arrive here in abundance to enjoy the food, drink, and festivities.